Program for Undergraduate Research Experiences (PURE)
The Human Environmental Sciences college at the University of Missouri awards select students each year with a grant to conduct research in their field with a faculty mentor.
The objective of this project was to demonstrate how the latest apparel technologies can be intrinsically woven together to create functional clothing for consumers. The study narrowed in on performance cycling gear, and areas in which this new apparel design process can be used to enhance the overall function of a one-piece cyclist’s skin suit. A cyclist skin suit must be fitted to the athlete’s body to reduce wind resistance during a race, increase range of motion, and be breathable to keep the cyclist comfortable. Because of these specifications, a skin suit provided the opportunity for the research team to apply a novel technology-enabled apparel design process to increase the functionality of the garment.
Using 3D Apparel Technology to Create Garment Patterns for Custom Fit Cyclist Uniforms
Step 1
Using the Tc2 Image Twin Body Scanner to create a 3-dimensional avatar with the model's exact measurements. The body scanner works by using twelve different sensors with infared depth to capture a full 360 degree body scan. For this study, scans were taken in the A-Frame and Working Positions.
A-Frame Position
Working Position
Step 2
After the scan is processed, the avatar is brought into Optitex. Optitex Pattern Design Software is the leading provider of integrated 2D CAD and #D digital product solutions for the textile industry. This software allows designers to create flat patterns by sketching stillness directly onto the avatar's surface and turn them into 3D designs.
Step 3
The Pattern pieces are then "unwrapped" from the 3D form and converted into 2D pattern pieces using the Optitex 3D flattening module. Once the pieces are in the 2D workspace the individual pieces are cleaned up. This is done by straightening, or rounding out, lines and edges, dictating grain line, specifying which pieces are "cut-on-fold." or need to be cut twice, and adding seam allowance. Next, the pieces are matched together at the seams to ensure that they line up. also known as "walking" the pieces together. During this process notches are also placed to indicated where pieces match together.
Step 4
The next step was to design the 3D body scan to test pattern fit and seam placement. The design team focused on removing seams from areas of tension to reduce pressure. The ability to design directly on the 3D form was a key part of this because the designer is able to see the distinct contours of the body, so the seam lines can work with the body, not against it.
Step 5
In this step of the process, the garment is virtually fitted on the model. It was first fitted in the working position in which it was created, and then it was tested in the A-frame pose to illustrate points of tension, and areas that may need future adjusting.
Step 6
After the pattern pieces were finalized in Optitex, they were brought into Adobe Illustrator where the design team added the slits to the pattern pieces. When the body is in working position, it stretches in different directions. This is what determined the directions of the slits. Vertical slits are placed at the shoulder blades, which will open when the rider’s arms are extended on the handlebars. Horizontal slits are placed on the lower back moving up the vertebrae to open as the body arches into a hunched over position while riding.
Step 7
Once the artwork for the slits is created, the vector based file is uploaded to the laser cutter. Once the dimensions of the of the artwork are set to scale, both pattern pieces and slits are cut in one process. Cutting a synthetic material with a laser cuter singes the cut edge thus creating a finished (non fraying) edge without the need to sew. A stretch metallic tape is also cut into ovals with slits that mimicked that of the laser cuts. They are then adhered to the garment around the slits using a heat press, which adds extra endurance to the slits.
After the pieces are cut, theflatlock and coverstitch machines are used to create non-abrasive seams that will not cause chafing for the rider. In addition, the seams will be taped with Beamis stretch seam tape to increase abrasion resistance in the seams.
Step 8
Once the first sample has been fit tested, steps 3-7 are repeated to make modifications and ensure that the garment has reached maximum fit and performance potential. After the second sample is created, another fit test is performed, at which point the garment should be finalized or nearly finalized. If more modifications are necessary, steps 3-7 are repeated for the creation of the final garment.
Insights
When taking on this project, my knowledge of cycling apparel was very minimal. I was able to gather information through interviews, blogs, and studying cycling apparel, however I am still expanding my knowledge on this topic.
If I were to continue on with this study, I would do further research into the muscle groups used during cycling. I would like to make ‘patches’ on the 3D avatar that outline these muscle groups, and then test different weights of fabrics in these patches for added support, compression, and endurance during rides.
During this project one of our goals was to eliminate seams that could rub, or cause discomfort. The Optitex software made it very easy to create long, cylindrical pattern pieces that could wrap around the body, thus eliminating seams. However, what I’ve learned from the fit tests is that eliminating seams may not be the best solution for this type of garment.
I would have also liked to have had the time to create multiple samples to experiment with seams and laser cutting, and their relationship to fit, ease, and ventilation in the garment. I also would have liked to utilized Optitex’s ‘tension mapping’ feature in virtual fit tests, and compare those results to what I observe from an authentic fit test. I also would have taken measurements of the different scan positions across the areas of the body where we focused on the lengthening and shortening of the body. I think learning the exact differences in these measurements would help with the development of the slits.
Optitex’s software, while being very revolutionary, is still in its early stages. Learning a whole new software for this project took more time than anticipated. Some parts of the process were simpler to learn that others, but it was still a time consuming process. Through this process I’ve learned so much about user centered, performance enhancing garments, an area of design I wasn't previously familiar with. I also learned how to use four state of the art technologies which hopefully will become more commonly used with time. The cons of these technologies are how time consuming they are to learn, though the potential benefits of learning them are more than worth it.